+Count_Macula+ is a character that I have been working on for close to two years now. I remember being on the back of an empty USAsia bus from Reno back to my apartment in San Francisco, half asleep with Ray Kerzweil's Novel, The Singularity is Near, open in my lap. Suddenly I was stricken with a vision of a half-dead cyborg Dracula slamming organ keys with neon fingers. As the vision faded and I woke up to city lights twinkling like LEDs on a switchboard, I was haunted by a post-human fantasy. Who was this phantom robot? What is his purpose in a world in the early stages of a technological uprising? Am I reading too many science fiction novels? As these questions formed, so did my understanding of my soon-to-be alter ego. I spent the first couple months in concept stage, drawing frantically in my sketchbook trying to capture his true form. With every sketch, Macula came closer to realization. I was a man obsessed. Yet, somehow these sketches were never enough. He needed a world to live in. He needed life. Then I realized that I must become Macula. Bring him to life myself and create a world filled with half dead cyborgs charging onward as nanotechnology swims though their veins, replicating organic cellular structures. A post-singular world where memories, thoughts, ideas, and emotions are shared in an infinite database accessible to anyone, anywhere and at any time. I have always found it interesting how in most science fiction novels, computers are inevitably evil. But what happens when we are the computers? The line drawn between good and evil becomes blurred allowing hero and villain to become synonymous.
This is the journal of how the latest version of +Count_maculA+ has come into existence.
I have been lucky enough to have a great mentor in my life. Barry Baldwin is an amazing sculptor and has taught me everything I know about casting and sculpting in his studio in east oakland. Most all of these photos are taken in his workshop over the course of 3 months. This is an account of how I was able to realize Macula's helmet though casting techniques.
Phase One: Plaster Waste Mold
For Macula's helmet I decided to use an old Dot helmet to get the initial shape. This way I would have a perfect cast of a smooth shape to build on. The first step was to clean the hemet and cover any open areas or cracks with clay so that the plaster would lock in the actual helmet, which creates a big problem when it comes time to separate the mold. Next, I built a 3 inch clay wall dividing the helmet in half so that the mold would come apart easily. A clay "skirt" was also build around the bottom of the helmet to catch the plaster and keep it from running everywhere. The clay and helmet was the covered in a thin layer of petroleum and kerosine so that the plaster would have little trouble releasing.
Next we applied some plastic wrap to the side that wasn't going to be cast yet to reduce having to clean up an excess plaster.
Now comes the plaster. I used a mixture of 3 parts Hydrocal to 1 part FGR-95. First mix these parts dry very thoroughly. Then mix 2.5 parts mix to 1.5 parts water. Wait for the plater to set up just enough so that it wont run and the apply it to the side of the helmet. It is important that you get the consistency of this first coat perfect so that it picks up all the details. Usually I will dye this fist coat as well so that I can see if I am missing any areas when I apply further coats of plaster. After the first coat has set up and starts giving off some heat, make another mixture of plater and wait until it has set up much thicker than the first coat. Apply another layer of the thicker plaster, then add square of fiberglass in order to reinforce the mold. make sure to tamp the fiberglass down with your hands or a paint brush so there are no air bubbles. Repeat this process twice. Cover any exposed fiberglass with another layer of plaster. One this final layer has almost set, I smoothed out the surface with a wet sponge. I don't have any live action shots of this process because you must work extremely fast and my hands were covered in plaster, but this is what the mold should look like:
Now for the next side. After I removed the clay wall, I used a drill the make keys in the plaster around the top of the mold. This way I will know exactly how the two molds fit together. Clay wedges were placed on the top edge of the mold so that I could prey the two mold apart later. Again, the helmet as well as the first mold and clay skirt were covered with a layer of petroleum.
The the same plaster process was applied to the remaining side. After the final layer had gone off, clamps were applied to the edges of the mold so that they would not become deformed while the plaster is setting up. This is an issue because if the two ends of the molds don't line up perfectly, the mold won't work.
After the plaster was dry (takes about a day), I removed the clamps and cleaned up the edges with a saw. Next I dug out the clay keys and filled the holes with water using a squirt bottle. Water allows the molds the release easier. After squirting A LOT of water into the holes, I used small wooden stakes and a rubber mallet to gently split the molds apart. This was a very slow and gradual process so that the mold didn't become damaged in any way.
Once the molds were split and the helmet inside was removed, I put them back together and clamped them again so they would not distort over time. Next I coated the inside of the mold with a release aid called purelube. Purelube is lathered on the inside of the mold with water about 3-4 times until the inside surface feels velvety. This ensures that the next coat of plaster that I will use to fill the mold wont stick and destroy the mold.
Finally it is time to fill the mold. Just like creating the jacket, A thin layer of the plater mixture is applied first so that the all the details are picked up. It is easiest to use a paint brush and pull the plater to the upper edges because it tends to pool at the bottom. Then a layer of thicker plaster, then fiber glass for reinforcement and a final layer of plaster. This type of mold is called a waste mold because it usually falls apart or is destroyed after the first time you use it, but my mold stayed solid throughout so I was able to pull two helmets. I could probably pull 2 more if I wanted :)
The twins:
You have no idea how good this felt. Best cure for a hang over ever.
Phase Two: Sculpting
This was definitely the longest phase in the epoch of +Count_Macula+ and almost cost me graduating on time. But I worked it out and ended up getting an A in my sculpture class without having to be completely finished with the piece. Mahahahah! Just kidding. I got an extension which ended up not being worth it in the long run. Moral of this story: make your deadlines. Anyways, After having the plaster cast of the helmet, I used some of my sketches as well as a skunk skull for reference material for the helmet. Having these references around was very helpful, but it was almost as if the helmet began to sculpt itself.
First I cut out a shape for the eyes with a thin saw.
OMG GLAMOUR SHOTZ!
sometimes I think Im cool.
Next I built up the nose by attaching wires to the helmet and building up the surface with a different kind of plaster called Fast set-40. This plaster dries much faster and is a lot softer so it is easy to sand and shape.
Next I began cutting the bottom of the helmet with a saw and files in order to make teeth. Also sanding. Lots and lots of sanding.
Next I added plastic human teeth and buffalo teeth to the front and side of the jagged bottom area to add a further skull-like quality.
In order to get the helmet extremely smooth and as close to looking manufactured as possible, I built up the surface with spray primer and bondo, sanding in between layers. I also alternated primer colors so I could tell how far down I was sanding. This part of the process took the longest and almost cost me graduating on time. Funny how I have the least amount of photos for this stage..
Phase Three: Rubber Mold
Then it was time to build the plater jacket. This stage was a little hard for me to understand initially. First you cover one side of the piece in clay so that no rubber can escape into that part of the helmet. Next I added a layer of clay to the exposed side as a place holder for the rubber. Small clay keys were added around the perimeter so that the rubber would fit snugly into the jacket. Next I made a horn out of clay which would become the pour spout and made marks with straws to indicate were the air holes would be. Then it was time to make another plaster jacket.
After the jacket was set and removed, I carved air holes into the small keys so that there would be no bubbles in the rubber. The jacket was then put back on the helmet, this time without the clay cover. Next the jacket was secured tightly with straps. Then it's pour time. First I weighed the amount of clay it took to cover the helmet so I didn't waste rubber. Then I made the mixture being sure to stir it very thoroughly. Berry would always say 'just when you think you have mixed it enough, mix it again.' Then I poured the liquid rubber in the spout slowly until it began to fill up though the straws at the top.
After the rubber was dry, it was time to carve the other side out of the clay and go through the same process again.
During this processes, the original sculpture was pretty much destroyed... which was actually really gratifying for some reason.
Phase Four: Final Cast
Finally it was time to fill the rubber mold and pull the final cast. Since it is rubber I can use this mold again and again and experiment with different materials. The first helmet that I used was a mixture of polyester and aluminum powder.We decided to fill the molds separately and then put them back together joining them with the polyester mixture. This way I wouldn't have too much trouble catching all the details, especially around the teeth. First I made a mixture of the polyester with the aluminum powder. I painted a thin layer of this on the rubber and waited about 15-20 min for it to harden. Next I added another layer, with out the aluminum and added 2 layers of fiberglass for reinforcement. After it had dried significantly, I cleaned up the edges with a file, pulling off excess fiberglass. Then I put the two sides together, making sure they fit correctly, clamped them in place and added the polyester mixture and 2 layers of fiberglass to the seam.
Finally I removed the clamps and gently pulled the mold apart using the same process as before with the wooden stakes and rubber mallet. And thusly +Count_maculA+ was born unto the world.
Beta
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